While much of the Western world celebrates Halloween, in Cusco and across the Andes the first days of November are devoted to All Saints’ Day and the Day of the Dead (All Souls’ Day). It isn’t a sad occasion: it’s a celebration full of life, when families welcome the souls of their loved ones.
If you’re in Cusco at this time of year, you’ll see one of the most mystical and colorful traditions in the region, defined by food, faith and a deep connection with the past.
1. Welcoming the souls: the altars
At the heart of the celebration is the belief that souls come home to visit their families.
- The table for the dead. Families set up an altar at home with the favorite food and drinks of the person who died, decorated with flowers, candles and, most important of all, t’anta wawas.
- T’anta wawas. These are giant sweet breads baked in the shape of babies, women or animals. They symbolize the return of the soul or the companion of the deceased, and they are the most photogenic and representative part of the celebration.
2. The ritual at the cemetery: a community gathering
On November 2, the celebration moves to the cemetery, where sadness gives way to a community picnic.
- The visit. Families bring to the cemetery the dishes the soul «ate» at home. Graves are decorated with flowers, garlands and the favorite food of the deceased.
- Sharing. It’s a time of gathering when friends, neighbors and visitors are welcome to share the food, the stories and, often, the favorite music of those who have passed. A beautiful show of how close Andean families are.
3. Traditional food (beyond the offerings)
The food of this celebration has ritual meaning, but it’s also delicious.
- Suckling pig and tamales. Two traditional dishes of these days are oven-roasted suckling pig (lechón) and tamales (stuffed corn dough).
- Sweet breads. Besides t’anta wawas, bakeries make breads shaped like horses, ladders (to help the soul climb to heaven) and crosses.
How to experience it as a traveler
- Visit the market. San Pedro Market is the best place to see the huge variety of t’anta wawas and sweet breads.
- Be respectful. If you’re invited to take part, do so with great respect and humility. Remember that it’s a sacred ritual for the families.
Will you be in Cusco in early November?
We’re a local agency in Cusco, registered with MINCETUR since 2003, with English-speaking guides. We run cultural tours in Cusco and the Sacred Valley so you can see Andean traditions up close.